Madras, a colorful plaid cotton fabric, has long been synonymous with casual American luxury, particularly in preppy fashion. Often seen in light summer attire at country clubs or during vacations in places like Martha’s Vineyard, it has been popularized by brands like Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers. However, this staple of American fashion has humble origins in Chennai, India (formerly known as Madras), where it was first worn by Indian laborers.
An advert for shirt brand Hathaway boasts of the fabric's rarity Hathaway
The fabric gained international attention in the late 1950s when American textile importer William Jacobson introduced it to the US market. A distinctive feature of madras is its tendency to bleed when washed, a quality that Jacobson initially forgot to mention to his buyers, sparking consumer complaints. However, thanks to an advertising campaign by David Ogilvy that embraced this quirk with the tagline "Guaranteed to Bleed," madras was transformed into a must-have fabric for the American elite.
Madras has a deep connection with history, with records showing that it was traded by Portuguese merchants as early as the 13th century. Over time, it became part of the fashion fabric of the Caribbean and the Ivy League in the US. Today, while it is less prevalent, madras remains a symbol of a bygone era of American preppy style.
