Fashion plays a complex role during bleak times, serving as both an escape and a means to confront reality. At Paris Fashion Week, designers responded to the challenges of the day — from political shifts and #MeToo lawsuits to luxury sector downturns — by exploring themes of heritage, surrealism, and retrospection.
Coperni’s collection embraced childlike wonder, staging its show at Disneyland Paris with Disney-inspired designs, while Chloé and Valentino delved into their archives, revisiting boho chic aesthetics and vintage details from the ‘70s, respectively. Ann Demeulemeester revived the indie sleaze period with disheveled tailoring and ruffled fabrics, while Alexander McQueen drew on gothic elements for a sense of dark nostalgia.
Surrealism was a major influence this year, coinciding with the 100th anniversary of the movement. Designers like Alphonse Maitrepierre integrated contemporary symbols such as USB sticks and game controllers into garments, imagining what surrealism might look like in today’s tech-dominated world. Balmain exaggerated silhouettes and used hyper-realistic illustrations to bend reality, and Coperni’s playful, Mickey Mouse-inspired pieces evoked childhood fantasies.
Sustainability and environmental responsibility were also emphasized. Stella McCartney, for example, showcased a collection that was 91% recyclable, and Vivienne Westwood’s Andreas Kronthaler dedicated his show to environmental activist Paul Watson. Young brands like Germanier used deadstock materials to propose new, greener approaches.
Exaggerated silhouettes and photo realistic illustrations also evoked feelings of surrealism, this time at Balmain. Kristy Sparow/Getty Images
Functionality remained a key theme for several houses. Junya Watanabe looked to trekking gear for inspiration, while Dior focused on sports performance with athletic cuts. Loewe’s voluminous silhouettes and Louis Vuitton’s trunk-inspired runway further highlighted the interplay between form and function.
The collections also explored femininity and sensuality. Saint Laurent reimagined the femme fatale in oversized suits and sheer fabrics, while Balenciaga used lingerie details to explore themes of eroticism and fragility. Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director, noted that the show was an attempt to present something “sensual, erotic,” reflecting on the contradictions and complexities women navigate daily.
In uncertain times, fashion offers both a canvas for creative expression and a mirror to society’s evolving dynamics. Paris Fashion Week demonstrated that fashion can still be bold and provocative, and while the world outside may seem chaotic, designers continue to push boundaries and inspire with their innovative visions.
