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Once illegal, this Japanese alcohol is making a comeback

A Japanese attendant pours sake into a cup for visitors at the Koami Shinto shrine. Behrouz Mehri/AFP/Getty Images
A Japanese attendant pours sake into a cup for visitors at the Koami Shinto shrine. Behrouz Mehri/AFP/Getty Images

In a digital era dominated by trendy drinks, Tokyo's Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery reintroduces a historic, lesser-known beverage to locals and visitors alike: doburoku. Known as the ancestor of modern sake, doburoku is a cloudy, unrefined drink crafted by adding all ingredients at once, which results in a sweet flavor and lower alcohol content. Once the preferred drink for farmers and Shinto priests, doburoku’s simple brewing method led to widespread home production. However, the Meiji government imposed restrictions, labeling homebrewed doburoku as illegal moonshine to favor licensed breweries for tax revenue. Despite restrictions, doburoku maintained ritual importance in Shinto practices.A glass of doburoku. KPS/iStockphoto/Getty Images

Legal doburoku gradually reemerged, particularly when Japan allowed certain regions to sell it in 2003 to stimulate stagnant economies. Today, bars like Sake Hotaru and Heiwa Doburoku in Tokyo are some of the few places where the public can enjoy it. Heiwa Shuzo President Norimasa Yamamoto notes the curiosity among international patrons, with frequent questions on doburoku’s differences from sake and its brewing process. For those outside Japan, Kato Sake Works in Brooklyn offers this unique taste of Japanese history, albeit with limited local awareness.

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